How do you sight in a 30 06

It should be close a couple of inches high at , and you should only have to make minor adjustments from there if you want it zeroed for yards. Comment Post Cancel. Something else to think about, what kind of ammo are you using? I have an old Win. Never did know why, it would shoot other grn brands just fine. I get the best groups with grn Hornady reloads.

I like all the ideas above. You are assuming that this gentleman is using a scope. While that is likely if he is using open sights making the necessary adjustments can be confusing. In any case sight at close range should get things on track. Prior to getting Bushnell boresight device I use to pull the bolt, secure the rifle and center on a dot on a wall 25 feet away by looking down the bore. Adjust the crosshairs of the scope to center on that dot, confirm that the bore is still on the mark and you are bore sighted.

Now, firing the rifle at a target 25 yards away will have you on the target and you can track the movement to the bullseye. Once accomplished, move onto the yard target.

If you have trouble at that 25 yard range, you better get one BIG target. If that fails, it is time to start wondering about the scope, its mounts or the rifle. If the sight in process goes wrong at the yard location after tracking correctly at the 25 yard mark then your shooting may be the issue.

Lets start at the beginning. First, make sure that the barrel is absolutly clean. If you have copper fouling in the barrel you can use a bore brush with copper cleaner on a cleaning rod in your cordless drill to really clean it out. After it is spotless, check the muzzle crown for any burr that could have possibly arisen from the barrel either sitting on the floor of a truck or getting bumped on something.

Next, Make sure the mount is tight, BUT after, also make sure that your cross hairs are aligned vertically and horizontaly. To keep a. That would put the bullet roughly two feet high at and Shooting is necessary. Zeroing Your Rifle After satisfactory results at yards, move the target to or your zero range. During the last stages of zeroing, make sight changes only after three-shot groups.

A single shot can be misleading. After each shot at 35, move the rear sight or scope dial in the direction you want the bullet to go until you hit point of aim. Mind the dial arrows! European scope knobs typically turn clockwise to move impact up and right, while clockwise rotation on scopes built for the American market moves impact down and left.

Now, switch to a yard target. Depending on the load, the rifle will then put its bullets close to point of aim at yards. A minute of angle is 1. A greater range of adjustment results, as well. European dials are typically marked in centimeters. Sighting in at 25 yards to get close and then confirming and zeroing at would be my recomendation. The problem with "sighting in" at 25 yards and calling it good is that you are probably leaving out several variables the old man isn't considering.

When you sight in at 25 yards your bullet is rising above line of sight and several variables come into play that will determine what goes on down range. Ring height is one of them, probably the most noticiable.

If you have extra low rings your bullet is approaching line of sight from a more accute angle than if you have extra high rings. Line of sight is always a straight line, line through muzzle is always a straight line, line of bullet flight is ALWAYS falling in relation to the muzzle but will cross the line of sight at 2 points. If all you want is advise, forget what I just wrote, sight in to be 2" high at yards and you have a point and click rifle from point blank to yards with just about any flat shooting rifle.

Dec 24, Messages: 8, Joined: Aug 13, Location: Wisconsin. I do not use gr bullets in my 06 but use Hornady interlocks--I first shoot any new load at 25yds so get on paper- then go to yds and sight in at 2" hi which puts me spot on at around yds and -7" at yds which is fine for a deer sized animal when holding on nthe shoulder.

Actual results will depend upon rifle,powder,number of grains of powder etc. SeniorCoot , Dec 24, You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Share This Page Tweet. If I remember, for gr.

This assumes your scope is the standard height above the bore. I suggest you sight in 1" high at yd and then shoot a target at 75 yds and see what the POI is. I bet you will be just slightly high. I had a. I put the cross hair on the bottom of the chest and got a heart shot.

As an example. Good Luck. I'd suggest zeroing for yards on the nose. Aim above the center point on the rear of the shoulder so you don't damage too much meat and you take out both lungs. It's rare to take a shot in GA that is beyond about 80 yards but you can shoot effectively out to yards just fine with that zero if you have to.

You just have to know the drop. The drop table is marginally different from a yard zero but just as effective. Regardless of which zero distance you choose, the main thing is that you know and test the drop at likely shooting distances so you become familiar with them. You can see these drops for your load in most reloading manuals or online ballistics calculators.

I'd suggest setting up targets at 25, 50, , and yards, even more if you need to shoot longer distances. It pays to know. You will find the is pretty flat shooting for a few hundred yards and it has a very predictable drop for yards once you have the drop table and test your ammo.

I also hunt mostly in thick woods and I think there's a strong argument to be made against the yard zero for this kind of shooting. Yes, zeroing for 2" high at gives you a very long distance at which your rifle is shooting "minute of deer. When a nice buck sticks its whole head and neck out from behind a tree, at 50 yards, you'll want to be able to put the cross hairs right where the bullet should go. Neck shots, spine shots on bedded deer, etc. Especially as thick-woods shot opportunities also tend to be brief!

For my hunting here in the Adirondacks, I zero at yards. That means my bullet is apt to hit right where I'm aiming at any likely range inside of I shoot grain loads from the ' It's more than you need for deer, but I think slower and heavier is less apt to come apart on a shoulder shot, etc.

Guys, I think he is saying he can't find a place to Zero in at yds.